Words: Tom Warburton

The war-torn nation of Afghanistan, plagued by instability, terror, and conflict is hardly the place you'd expect the emergence of mountaineering to flourish. Yet Afghanistan, with a conflict that has cost over 31,000 Afghan civilian deaths, is beginning to embrace adventure sports. 

So what is mountaineering like in Afghanistan? Dure magazine caught up with two Afghan mountaineers Ahmad Shoaib Samimi and Esmatullah Habibian at the forefront of the sport in the nation. 

Afghanistan

On paper, Afghanistan is almost geographically perfect for outdoor enthusiasts. Of course, it is home to the Hindu Kush mountain range. The range was made famous by Eric Newby’s renowned climb later popularised by his legendary book “A short walk in the Hindu Kush”.

With the FCO advising “against all travel” to the majority of Afghanistan, its no wonder that security poses a significant challenge for the growth of mountaineering in the nation. The Taliban banned sports across the country, with widespread sport only flourishing since their downfall in 2002. For the most part, the regions popular with climbers are safe, remote enough to not generate attention from groups or individuals wishing to bring harm. Western climbers have reported feeling safe, yet it is advised to only visit Afghanistan with the proper security arrangements. 

It's not only security issues that threaten the growth of the outdoor industry in Afghanistan. Traditional values that still are prominent in many areas, mean for many, the outdoor community is inaccessible. This barrier is slowly being broken down in 2018 Hanifa Yousoufi become the first Afghan women to climb the country’s highest peak Noshaq. Afghanistan is considered one of the worst places to be a woman, yet organisations like Ascend: Leadership Through Athletics aim to change this. Running programs encouraging women into climbing. Recruiting over 20 women every year for their 2-year programs which aim to develop their leadership, service, physical fitness, psycho-social well-being and mountaineering skills.  

The Wakhan corridor is perhaps the most remote climbing destination in the world, so even the Taliban in their height of terror failed to get a stronghold in the province. Climbers hoping to reach the Wakhan corridor must struggle the old fashioned way, days of walking, dealing with remote government permits and a lack of base camps are all part of the charm, not many climbing hotspots can boast no tourist infrastructure. 

The most popular and perhaps most infamous mountain range in Afghanistan is the Hindu Kush. Over 500 miles long it stretches across Pakistan, Tajikistan and Afghanistan. The range holds Afghanistan’s highest mountain Noshaq. Climbing is popular in the Wakhan corridor the narrow strip of and between Pakistan, Tajikistan and China. The Hindu Kush also holds Mir Samir, the famed mountain that Eric Newby attempted to climb in 1956. The mountain is considered by locals to be impossible to climb. So far no one has reached the peak. 

Pamir Mountain range, commonly known as the Roof of the World, despite the range being situated mainly in Tajikstan, its straddles Afghanistan, with the mountain Koh-e Pamir, known as the peak of the Pamirs, a notable attempt was made by a group of Afghan women and Norweigan climbers in 2018 supported by the NGO “Ascend: Leadership Through Athletics”.

The western half of the Himalayas stretch into Afghanistan, with many peaks that cross the border yet to be commercially climbed. 

Mountaineering in Afghanistan has yet to fully reach its peak, as such there remains many ranges and mountains that have not yet been climbed.

Mountaineers Ahmad Shoaib Samimi & Esmatullah Habibian

So what is mountaineering like in Afghanistan? Dure magazine caught up with two Afghan mountaineers Ahmad Shoaib Samimi and Esmatullah Habibian at the forefront of the sport in the nation. 

What inspired you to start mountaineering?

Ahmad: Afghanistan has four mountains above 7,000 meters. It also maintains ten mountains above 6,000 meters and several mountains that are 5,000 meters in height. It is worth mentioning that these areas remain mostly untouched.

In addition, the two largest mountain ranges in the world are the Hindu Kush and the Pamirs. This is definitely a good reason for me to be a climber.

Esmatullah: The mountain has an attraction that draws us to it.

We go to the mountains not only for the sake of increasing physical strength and gaining health but also for the sake of the exaltation of our souls.

Climbing in Afghanistan can’t be easy, what type of barriers do you face?

Ahmad: Mountaineering in Afghanistan is never easy. We have many challenges ahead of us such as security threats, lack of a necessary mountaineering program, financial problems, and transportation problems.

Esmatullah: Our biggest problem in mountaineering is the lack of necessary mountaineering facilities. There are other problems such as security and lack of money.

Afghanistan doesn’t always have the infrastructure available to support mountaineering, how do you overcome this? 

Ahmad: The programs I execute are totally private and are not supported by any sponsors.

Esmatullah: We know that there are countless dangers to mountaineering in Afghanistan and we know that we take great risks. However, we are always trying to grow the mountaineering industry in our country.

What’s your favourite climb in Afghanistan and would you recommend any routes? 

Ahmad: I love mountaineering in Wakhan Badakhshan province and ShahFuladi in the Bamiyan province. Also, I enjoy Mir Samir in Panjsher province. I suggest you visit these three locations if you ever visit Afghanistan.

Esmatullah: Our favourite climb is Mount Everest, which will be an honour for everyone to climb for the first time as an Afghan

Do you think Mountaineering plays an important role in encouraging tourists to Afghanistan? 

Ahmad: Yes, it certainly is. Mountaineering in the mountains with 7000, 6000, and 5000 meters, which have deep and extremely beautiful valleys will be an unforgettable memory for you.

Esmatullah: We look at mountaineering as an industry and Afghanistan has a lot of amazing mountains, we have no doubt that mountaineering will be one of the best ways to attract tourists to the country.

Will mountaineering help transform people’s perceptions of Afghanistan? 

Ahmad: Certainly. Mountains are always beautiful and whoever is busy with the mountain, this beauty will surely spread to his soul and body.

Esmatullah: Yes, most people in the world think of Afghanistan as a ruined, war-torn country. Mountaineering paints a picture of the true face of Afghanistan.

What’s in the future for your group and mountaineering in general in Afghanistan?

Ahmad: We are eager to break some of the world records acknowledging the difficulties ahead of us. We will never lose hope. 14 X 8000 is waiting for us.

Esmatullah: Our group continues its efforts to make the mountaineering industry in Afghanistan grow and the mountains of Afghanistan to witness the presence of countless mountaineers around the world.

Companies such as “Secret Compass” are offering 22-day trekking tours of the Pamir range priced at £3,999. This tour allows you to trek through Little and Big Pamir and reaches passes up to 5000 metres. 

Wild Frontiers offers a 20-day trek for £5,245. Starting in Dushanbe, Tajikistan the tour allows you to explore the famous Wakhan corridor and stay in several local villages across Tajikistan and Afghanistan. 

For more advanced mountaineering, we recommend speaking to Untamed Borders who are experts at tailoring custom trips in remote and hostile territories. 

The Foreign and Commonwealth Office advises “against all travel” to Afghanistan, we recommend booking through a recognised travel provider and ensuring that correct security considerations have been made.